Extension

Hurry to Reserve your Seat in the 2025 Pecan Management Course

Becky Carroll, Senior Extension Specialist

 

Limited spots remain for the upcoming 2025 Pecan Management Course. If you're interested, be sure to register soon. This course offers a valuable opportunity for both new and experienced growers to learn or refresh their basic management skills needed to successfully grow pecans.

 

The first meeting will be on February 25. Other meeting dates are as follows: April 1, May 6, July 1, August 5, September 9, and October 14. Classes will be held on one Tuesday afternoon each month from 1:00 PM to 5:00 PM at the Cimarron Valley Research Station near Perkins. The May class will begin earlier, at 10:00 AM, to allow additional time for grafting practice in the field. A box lunch will be provided on that day. Please note that there will be no class in June; however, participants are encouraged to attend the Oklahoma Pecan Growers Association meeting, which will take place at Sequoyah State Lodge near Hulbert from June 5-7, 2025.

 

Holding the classes throughout the season allows participants to learn about the specific management requirements needed at different times of the year. Students will benefit from a mix of classroom instruction and hands-on experience in the orchard.

 

The cost to enroll in the Pecan Management Course is $250 per student. Registration is due by February 14. County extension educators can enroll at a reduced cost of $50. Educators should contact becky.carroll@okstate.edu for enrollment information.

 

For more details, visit the 2025 Course Lectures page. Please share this information with interested individuals. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to reach out.

---

Deadline Approaches to Enroll in 2025 Pecan Pest Management Workshop

Becky Carroll

 

Be sure to sign up to attend the upcoming Pecan Pest Management Workshop. The workshop will be held in Shawnee at the Gordon Cooper Technology Center on February 20 from 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.

 

Growers and anyone interested in pecans can attend to learn more about what is needed to manage pests when producing pecans. The workshop is free to attend but registration is required. Refreshments will be served during breaks, but lunch will be on your own.

 

Agenda

• 8:30 a.m. Registration
• 9:00 a.m. Welcome & Introductions – Becky Carroll & Trent Boles
• 9:15 – 10:15 a.m. Pecan Disease Management Toolbox and Considerations under Prolonged Summer and Drought Conditions - Mustafa Jibrin, Assistant Professor, OSU Entomology & Plant Pathology
• 10:15 – 10:30 a.m. Break
• 10:30 – 11:30 a.m. Opportunities and Challenges of Drone Use in Pecans – Kelly Seuhs, Associate Extension Specialist, OSU Entomology & Plant Pathology
• 11:30 a.m. – 1:00 p.m. Lunch on your own
• 1:00 – 2:00 p.m. Pesticide Application Safety and More – Kevin Shelton, State Pesticide Coordinator, Pesticide Safety Education Program, OSU Entomology & Plant Pathology
• 2:00 – 2:30 p.m. Pesticide registration updates. How changes at EPA and the Endangered Species Act is affecting pesticide registration and pesticide labels from now on. Look a little closer at your labels why Roundup doesn’t always mean glyphosate anymore – Charles Luper, Extension Associate, Pesticide Safety Education, OSU Entomology & Plant Pathology
• 2:30 – 3:00 p.m. Basics of Successful Spray Applications – Kenneth Watkins, Station Superintendent, Cimarron Valley Research Station, Perkins
• 3:00 – 3:15 p.m. Break
• 3:15 – 4:15 p.m. Pest Management Calendar – Becky Carroll, Senior Extension Specialist, OSU Horticulture & Landscape Architecture
• 4:15 p.m. Door prize, wrap-up and questions

 

If you have any questions, please contact becky.carroll@okstate.edu or call (405) 744-6139.

---

Pecan Grafting Demonstrations

Becky Carroll

 

Are you interested in hosting a pecan grafting demonstration in your county this spring? If you have one planned or want to get one on your schedule, let me know so I can advertise or send participants your way. If you need some help, please contact me at becky.carroll@okstate.edu  for potential resources. I may be able to help teach your group or provide you with contacts in your area that could provide a demonstration. 

---

Starting Seeds Indoors

David Hillock

 

Many gardeners choose to start their own seeds at home, rather than purchasing transplants. The advantages include savings in cost, and the availability of a much wider selection of cultivars. You can also time seed sowing according to your expected planting date so that transplants are ready when you need them. Of course, planting seeds and tending seedlings is also a great way to spend a winter day.

 

You can start seeds in flats purchased from a plant supply company or garden center, you can use expandable peat pots, or you can use a variety of household items. When selecting a container to start your seeds, consider drainage. You do not want water sitting in the bottom of the container. You also want to make sure the container holds enough media that it will not dry out too quickly and will have plenty of room for roots to develop.

 

The potting media you use is also important. Often you can find a medium labeled specifically for seeding. Look for media with both good drainage and high water-holding capacity. These things seem contradictory, but you want your soil to hold adequate moisture for seeds to germinate without drying out too quickly, but you also want excess water to freely drain from the medium.

 

Light is often a limiting factor with starting seeds indoors. To produce hardy seedlings, you need 12 to 14 hours of light per day. Natural lighting is generally not enough. Supplement natural light using a shop light with alternating cool- and warm-white, fluorescent bulbs or specially made grow lights.

 

To plant the seeds, sow in rows 2 to 3 inches apart. Use a fairly tight spacing within the row. As a rule, sow seeds to a depth of approximately 3 times the diameter of the seed. Most seeds will germinate well at a temperature around 70-degrees F held constantly during day and night. After germination, temperatures can be lowered according to the type of plant you are growing. Refer to OCES Fact Sheet HLA-6020, “Growing Vegetable Transplants” for ideal growing temperatures. For many tomatoes, a day temperature between 70- and 80-degrees F and a night temperature between 60- and 65-degrees F is ideal.

 

Managing water in seed trays can be tricky. Over-watering is a common problem. The seeds do not use much water until they have germinated, and seedlings are actively growing. However, the seeds need moisture to germinate. Misting the soil until it is thoroughly damp is a good way to provide moisture. Then, cover the seed tray loosely with plastic, checking soil moisture periodically. Remove the plastic once you see seedlings emerge.

 

Though fertilizer labels recommend weekly fertilizer applications, an application every two to three weeks is usually sufficient. The first application is not needed until seedlings are ready to be transplanted, two to three weeks after sowing.

---

Fresh Spring Vegetables

David Hillock

 

The days for fresh vegetables to be picked right from the garden are soon coming. The cold winter temperatures will soon be leaving, allowing us to return to the garden and begin growing our favorite vegetables again. By February 15 many cool-season vegetables like cabbage, carrots, lettuce, peas, and potatoes can be planted (See chart below). The exact time to plant will vary slightly depending on the winter and where you live in the state. The south/southwest region could be as much as two weeks ahead of the northwest and panhandle areas of the state. The thing to remember though is that soil temperatures at planting depth should be at least 40 degrees F.

 

*These dates indicate planting times from southeast to northwest Oklahoma. Specific climate and weather may influence planting dates. For Cool-Season Vegetables, the soil temperature at the depth where the seeds are planted should be at least 40°F.

 

The ease with which one can grow plants is greatly influenced by the characteristics of the soil. Modifying or improving the soil prior to and during the gardening season is important.

 

Various fertilizer elements are necessary for plant growth, and many can be easily applied. However, other aspects of soil improvement may not be as easily and readily accomplished. In a very sandy soil, the incorporation of organic matter will reduce rapid drying of the soil and improve nutrient availability. In very heavy clay soils, organic matter will improve soil aeration, water absorption, and drainage.

 

Soil should absorb water readily, not form a crust upon drying, and drain sufficiently so that it does not become waterlogged. A porous soil contains more air, which is necessary for vigorous root growth. As organic matter decomposes, soil texture improves, and nutrient availability should increase. More information on garden soil improvement is given in fact sheet HLA-6007, Improving Garden Soil Fertility.

 

The soil must contain a supply of water and available fertilizer nutrients. Soils that produced a vegetable crop the previous year will be more easily managed than those with established grasses and weeds.

 

Additional fertilizers may be beneficial to stimulate growth and production. These might be incorporated in the soil prior to planting or applied on the soil surface later.

---

Soil Testing…the Right First Step

David Hillock

 

We all appreciate thick green lawns and lush productive gardens around the home. After all, attractive lawns and gardens add to both the aesthetic value and real value of our homes.

 

To achieve a high level of lawn quality and garden productivity, it is necessary to add fertilizer on a timely basis. When lawns and gardens don’t receive the amount of fertilizer that they need, they never achieve the quality or productivity we anticipate. When too much fertilizer is applied, nutrients are wasted and pose a threat to the environment.

 

The true value of a soil test is to help ensure that only needed nutrients are added in quantities which don’t adversely affect environmental quality.

 

The best time to test the soil is during a time when plants aren’t growing, although any time of year is satisfactory. In any case it is better to have the soil tested rather than guess which fertilizers to use and how much to apply. To make sure the test is accurate, sample the soil before fertilizer has been applied and follow proper collection procedures.

 

A soil test is only as good as the sample submitted for testing. Samples collected should represent the lawn or garden as a whole. The following steps will help in collecting good samples for submission.

 

• Scrape plant debris from the soil surface before sampling.
• Sample lawns to a depth of 3-4”. Sample gardens to a 6” depth.
• Use a clean bucket or other container and a soil probe or spade; collect cores or slices of soil from at least 15 different areas scattered throughout the lawn or garden and mix them together in the container.
• Mix soil thoroughly and fill the sample bag (bag can be obtained from your OSU County Extension Office) with a pint of the mixture.
• Submit samples and the completed information sheet to your OSU County Extension Office. They will send samples into the OSU Soil, Water, and Forage Laboratory for testing and then help you interpret the results.

 

Soil testing doesn’t need to be every year, every three years is often sufficient for most home gardens. The benefits of soil testing are many – it takes advantage of nutrients already in the soil, identifies nutrients that are lacking, reduces fertilizer applications, provides a proper balance of plant nutrients, allows adjustment of soil pH to an optimum level, and reduces chances of excess nutrients getting into the water sources.

 

For more information about soil testing contact your OSU County Extension Office or pick up the leaflet L-249, Soil Testing…the First Right Step.

---

When to Prune

David Hillock

 

Pruning can be done at any time of the year; however, recommended times vary with different plants. Contrary to popular belief, pruning at the wrong time of the year does not kill plants, but continual improper pruning results in damaged or weakened plants. In general, the best time to prune most plants is during late winter or early spring before growth begins. There are exceptions to this rule, and they will be noted below. The least desirable time is immediately after new growth develops in the spring. A great amount of carbohydrates stored in roots and stems is used in developing new growth. This “food” should be replaced by new foliage before it is removed; if not, considerable setback in plant growth may occur.

 

Trees and shrubs should be examined annually for pruning requirements. Too often, pruning is ignored for several years, allowing the plants to become overgrown. Then drastic pruning is necessary to bring the plant back into form and usefulness. If trees are properly trained when young, they will need little pruning when mature. For more information on training trees, see Extension Fact Sheet HLA-6415.

---

Fertilizing Asparagus

David Hillock

 

Asparagus is a wonderful spring vegetable requiring minimal maintenance. To promote a good crop, fertilizer needs to be applied to the crop twice each season, once in late February or early March and again at the end of the harvest season. The first fertilization stimulates shoot development and the second feeds the growth of ferns. Promoting vigorous fern growth will replenish the energy reserves in the roots for next year’s harvest.

 

Before applying fertilizer, remove last year’s dead ferns and move those to the compost pile. Apply a side dressing of fertilizer. Side dressing means applying the fertilizer to the soil around the plant, keeping the fertilizer from contacting the plant directly. Generally, only nitrogen is needed, which is the first number listed on a fertilizer bag. Only apply phosphorus and potassium if a soil test indicates a nutrient deficiency.

 

The fertilizer is applied at a rate of about one half to one pound of actual nitrogen per 50 square feet. As an example, a bed about 25 square feet, would need one-quarter to one-half pound of actual nitrogen. An organic source of nitrogen in the form of blood meal has a nutrient content of 12-0-0. This means nitrogen makes up 12 percent of the fertilizer by weight, or .12 pounds of nitrogen per pound of fertilizer. If the goal is to apply ¼ pound of nitrogen to the 25 square-foot asparagus bed, 2 pounds of blood meal will need to be applied.

---

Spring-Flowering Trees, Shrubs, and Vines

David Hillock

 

Exceptions to fall and late winter pruning include all spring-flowering trees and shrubs. Spring-flowering trees, shrubs, and vines should be pruned after the flowers have faded in spring, if necessary. Spring-flowering plants form their flowers during the summer and fall. Thus, summer, fall, or winter pruning will remove flower buds destroying the spring flowering display. Plants that fall into this category include crabapple, flowering quince, forsythia, viburnum, and wisteria to name a few.

 

The blooms of summer-flowering shrubs, trees, and vines bloom on limbs produced the same season. These plants may be pruned in the fall or in early spring. Some plants in this category include glossy abelia, butterfly bush, and rose-of-Sharon. Shade trees and non-flowering deciduous shrubs are also pruned at this time because it is easier to see the structure of the plants when no leaves are in the way.

 

Evergreen plants do not shed all their leaves at one time. Therefore, their branches are not bare in winter like deciduous plants. Evergreens should be pruned to control their shape and size and to remove dead, diseased, or damaged limbs. Old branches may also be removed to allow for new growth. Usually, evergreens require less pruning than deciduous trees and shrubs.

 

Evergreens may be divided into two groups: broadleaf and narrowleaf (coniferous) evergreens.

 

Broadleaf Evergreens

This group includes such plants as aucuba, camellia, boxwood, cherrylaurel, elaeagnus, holly, mahonia, nandina and photinia. Pruning of most broadleaf evergreen shrubs should be done just before new growth starts in the spring. This will allow the evergreen to grow and reform itself, and pruning scars will quickly fade.

 

Southern magnolia is common in Oklahoma. It is a broadleaf evergreen tree that responds poorly to heavy pruning. Do not remove the lower limbs when a magnolia is young, or the bark may sunscald.

 

Narrowleaf (Coniferous) Evergreens

With few exceptions, narrowleaf evergreens have few or no dormant buds on the older barren parts of the trunk or limbs. Therefore, timing and degree of pruning must be carefully considered. Cutting all the green leaves (needles) off coniferous evergreens will kill the plants.

 

The narrowleaf evergreens can be divided into two general classes: needle-leaf and scale-leaf. The proper time and methods of pruning depend on which of the classes the evergreen belongs.

 

The pine tree is a good example of a needle-leaf evergreen. Trees and shrubs in this class bear branches that radiate from the trunk in whorls, like spokes from a hub. There is a length of bare trunk between the whorls. Pine, fir, spruce and true cedar (Cedrus) belong to this class.

 

New growth on pine trees looks like tan candles on the ends of limbs in the spring. Pruning time should be limited to while the candle is tan-colored and before the needles reach full length. Portions of a needle-leafed evergreen tree or shrub may be sheared at this stage of growth to thicken an open spot in the foliage. Always leave one-half the length of the candle or new growth when shearing or pruning.

 

Shearing this class of plants after the candle or new growth stage, or below the candle, may result in death or disfigurement because new terminal buds may not be formed. 

 

Arborvitae and junipers are good examples of the scale-leaf class of coniferous evergreens, which bear their branches irregularly, somewhat like deciduous plants. Other examples include cypress, false-cypress, China fir, incense-cedar, and yew. This class can be pruned just before new growth begins in the spring and again in May, June, or July to shape or control growth. This allows new growth to cover scars before the dormant season. Just cut back to a branch fork with a green shoot. Work from underside of branches and slant the cuts upward. Make some cuts several inches deeper into the foliage mass than others to ensure a natural looking plant.

 

For more information on pruning trees, shrubs and vines, see Extension Fact Sheet HLA-6409 Pruning Ornamental Trees, Shrubs, and Vines.

---

Planting Bare-Root Trees and Shrubs

David Hillock

 

Bare-root plants are those harvested, stored, and sold without any type of soil or growing media attached to the roots. This process is done while the plants are dormant, which reduces potential stress on the plants if done properly. Several plant species and types respond well to this type of production and planting method, including fruit trees, small fruits, roses, some perennials, and some ornamental shrubs and trees.

 

Bare-root plants can be purchased in winter and should be planted in February or March. Bare-root or packaged plants should be dormant (not showing new growth). The bare-root plant is often prepackaged in a colorful bag containing a moist medium like sawdust to protect the plants from becoming desiccated prior to planting. After purchasing these plants, open the bag to make sure the roots are still damp and add water if necessary to keep them damp until planting. At planting remove all bags, strings, or wires.

 

Never leave roots exposed to air. Very fine root hairs, which are not visible to the naked eye, are responsible for moisture and nutrient uptake and are killed when exposed to dry air for even a short period. Keep the roots damp and covered while preparing the planting hole to protect the fine root hairs.

 

Trees and shrubs should be planted at the same depth at which they were growing in the container or field nursery. There is a texture and color change between the trunk or stem and the roots. The base of the plant should not be covered with more than one inch of soil. Planting too deep is a major cause of plant failure, especially in poorly drained clay soil.

 

Holes for bare-root plants should be dug large enough to accommodate the roots without crowding or twisting. The hole should be no deeper than the original root depth and at least twice the spread of roots. Broken and badly damaged roots should be removed. A mound or cone may be made in the center of the hole to accommodate the spread of roots and allow the tree or shrub to rest at the proper depth while backfilling the hole. Work the soil under and around the roots to remove air pockets. Firm the soil while filling until the hole is three-quarters full and then fill the hole with water. This will settle soil around the roots. After the water has soaked in, finish filling the hole with soil and water again. If the soil around the plant settles, bring it back up to grade with additional soil. For more information on planting trees and shrubs see Extension Fact Sheet HLA-6414 Planting Trees and Shrubs.

---

2025 Oklahoma Proven Selections

David Hillock

 

Each year a set of plants is chosen by horticulturists that will help consumers choose plants appropriate for Oklahoma gardens. The program began in 1999 by selecting a tree, shrub, perennial, and annual worthy of Oklahoma landscapes. To see all the plants recommended by the Oklahoma Proven Plant Selection Program, visit the Oklahoma Proven website.

 

Selections for 2025 are listed below:

 

Tree – Cedrus atlantica ‘Horstmann’, Horstmann Blue Atlas Cedar

Horstmann Blue Atlas Cedar is a smaller, more compact version of the species which offers striking powder-blue foliage. Horstmann is a graceful evergreen tree reaching up to 12’ high and 8’ wide. Because of its small stature compared to the species, it makes a perfect candidate for the smaller, urban landscape.

 

Water deeply and regularly during the first few growing seasons to establish an extensive root system; reduce frequency once established. Atlas Cedar is quite drought tolerant once established. It is best located in an area sheltered from high winds.

 

No serious insect or disease problems.

 

• Exposure: full sun
• Soil: well-drained, avoid overly wet sites
• Hardiness: USDA Zone 6-9

 

Shrub – Calycanthus species and cultivars, allspice or sweetshrub

Sweetshrub or allspice is a deciduous native shrub that can reach 6 to 12’ high with equal or slightly greater spread. Calycanthus floridus, is commonly called Carolina Allspice or Common Sweetshrub and is native to the south east. It is found growing in shady woodland areas and along stream banks. It gets its common name of sweetshrub because of the showy fragrant spring flowers which are often described as having a pineapple, strawberry, and banana aroma. Flowers are generally brownish to reddish-brown but varieties are available from red to yellow and white flowers.

 

Several cultivars and hybrids of sweetshrub are available and make the plant even more worthy of growing as an ornamental. ‘Aphrodite’ is a large shrub with large, cupped flowers that look a bit like a deep red magnolia. ‘Hartlage Wine’ displays stunning maroon flowers fading to wine-red. ‘Athens’ blooms are fragrant, yellow flowers. ‘Venus’ can grow to a height and spread of 5 feet; it produces dozens of ivory-colored flower buds that open almost pure white.

 

Sweetshrubs are tolerant of damage by deer and clay soils. Use it as a specimen, in a shrub border, naturalized area or in a patio planting where its sweet floral fragrance can be enjoyed. Sweetshrub can also be used in a shrub border or the smaller forms as a foundation planting. Once you see it in flower, you'll understand why it is a showstopper!

 

• Exposure: full sun to deep shade
• Soil: medium moisture, average garden soil. Tolerant of clay soil.
• Hardiness: USDA Zones 4-9

 

Perennial – Helianthus angustifolius, Narrow-leaf or Swamp Sunflower

Narrow-leaf or Swamp sunflower is a native perennial that can grow up to 8 feet with leaves that are rough and narrow, and it produces showy late-season yellow flowers. They are often putting on a spectacular display as late as Halloween and into early November. Prune plants back in June to encourage branching. Shorter cultivars are available such as ‘First Light’ and ‘Low Down’.

 

Narrow-leaf sunflower prefer moist to occasionally wet acidic sandy to clay soil loams in full sun but can be grown on drier soils if adequate moisture is provided. Staking may be required to support plants in windy areas.

 

Narrow-leaf sunflower is highly attractive to songbirds and pollinators. Flowers provide nectar to pollinators from mid-summer to frost. The plant is also a larval host for the Silvery Checkerspot (Chlosyne nycteis). Songbirds, quail, mourning doves, and small mammals are attracted to the seeds through the winter. Narrow-leaf sunflower is a great choice for perennial borders, native plantings, butterfly or pollinator gardens, along streams or ponds, and rain gardens.

 

• Exposure: full sun
• Soil: moist to occasionally wet. Tolerates drier soil but needs some supplemental irrigation.
• Hardiness: USDA Zone 5-9

 

Annual – Gomphrena species and cultivars, globe amaranth

Globe amaranth is a beautiful and tough annual grown for its globe-shaped flower heads that bloom all summer and come in many bright colors, including pink, red, purple, lilac, violet, orange, and white.

 

Globe amaranth is heat and drought tolerant but grows best when regular moisture is available. Globe amaranth has no serious pest problems requiring very little maintenance. It does well in beds, borders, and containers in full sun and attracts pollinators.

 

• Exposure: full sun
• Soil: average, well-drained soil
• Hardiness: use as an annual